The Skirted Toilet Problem: A Pro Guide to Installing One-Piece Smart Toilets

Modern one-piece smart toilets are defined by their “skirted” design—a smooth, solid base that conceals the trap-way and mounting bolts. This sleek look is a major aesthetic draw, but for the installer (whether a seasoned DIYer or a professional plumber), it presents a unique set of challenges.

Unlike traditional toilets where you can see the bolts and wax ring from above, a skirted toilet requires a “blind” installation. All the critical connections are hidden. This guide decodes the most common pitfalls and provides solutions based on real-world installation experiences.

Step 1: Pre-Installation is 90% of the Job

Do not remove your old toilet yet. The most critical work happens with a tape measure and the provided template.

• Check the Template: Your new toilet, such as the EPLO G20PRO, will come with a paper template. Lay it on the floor and trace the outline.
• Measure Your Rough-In: Confirm you have a standard 12-inch rough-in (from the wall to the center of the flange bolts).
• Check Clearances: Use the template to ensure you have space for the new unit’s dimensions (the G20PRO is 27.6” deep).
• Locate Power & Water: A smart toilet requires a GFCI electrical outlet nearby. Crucially, check your water supply line. As one installer noted for the G20PRO, the space behind the skirt is extremely tight. If your pipe exits the wall, you may need a right-angle compression fitting instead of the standard straight one.

Pitfall #1: The Toilet Flange Height

This is the most common failure point for skirted toilet installations. For a standard toilet, you can often “double up” wax rings to fix a low flange. You cannot do this reliably on a blind install.

The Rule: The toilet flange (the plastic or metal ring on the floor) must be at least level with, or preferably slightly above, the finished floor.

If your flange is below floor level (e.g., after installing new tile), you will not get a good seal with the wax ring. The toilet will leak.

The Solution: Do not proceed. Go to a hardware store and purchase a toilet flange extension kit. These kits are designed to raise the height of the flange to be level with the floor, ensuring a tight, reliable seal.

Pitfall #2: The “Blind” Wax Ring Set

With a traditional toilet, you can look down through the bolt holes to center the toilet over the flange. With a skirted design, you are flying blind.

The Solution: Use your template and a pencil.
1. Trace the outline of the toilet base on the floor.
2. Mark the exact centerline of the flange.
3. When you are ready to set the toilet (with the wax ring attached to its underside), you will use these pencil lines to guide the heavy unit into the perfect position on the first try. You do not want to have to lift and reset a toilet with a wax ring.

Pitfall #3: The Side-Mounting System

Since you can’t bolt the toilet down from the top, skirted units use a side-mounting system. This often involves two plastic “towers” or brackets that you bolt to the flange first. The toilet is then placed over them, and you secure it with heavy-duty screws through the sides of the toilet base (hidden by caps).

The Problem: Installers (like “Kindle Customer” in one review) note that these plastic towers can “wobble” even after being bolted to the flange. This is often because the bottom of the tower has an indent that, while helpful for alignment, prevents it from being tightened flush against the floor.

The Advanced Solution: Some experienced installers have modified these brackets by carefully cutting off about half the height of the bottom indent. This allows the tower to sit perfectly flat on the floor, creating a rock-solid, wobble-free assembly before the toilet is even brought in. (Note: This is an advanced technique; a simpler solution is to ensure the bolts are as tight as possible and that the side screws, once installed, will provide the final tension).

The Expert Takeaway: Know When to DIY

Installing a one-piece skirted toilet is significantly more difficult than a standard two-piece model. It requires precision, heavy lifting (they are very heavy), and troubleshooting issues like flange height and tight water lines.

Before you begin, ask yourself: * Is my flange perfectly level with or above the floor? * Do I have the right adapter for my water line? * Am I confident I can set a 100-lb unit perfectly onto a blind target?

If the answer to any of these is “no,” save yourself the headache and hire a professional. The extra cost for a plumber is well worth avoiding a leak or a wobbly, unsecured toilet.